Welcome to the final day of framing the main floor walls!
Hopefully you’ve been following the build up to this point.
To date we’ve had just over 1 million visitors visit out framing section of the build and that’s phenomenal.
It’s great to know that so many other folks are interested in following the build and perhaps building their own off grid home.
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Here’s a quick calendar you can open showing exactly what we did over the 15 day build period.
Today is day #8 of our overall build and we’ll be finishing up the main walls as well as the loft floor joist. We’ll build and stand the main load bearing interior wall and finish up the exterior sheathing.
The remaining interior walls will be built after the bathroom amenities are brought in and installed. Lastly we’ll incorporate pocket doors into the bathroom and the master bedroom to save precious space.
Here’s Where We Left Off Yesterday…
We have one end wall framed, the rear wall and half the front wall. As well, the loft floor-joist is complete and the OSB sub-floor is glued and nailed down.
Here’s a floor plan refresher to get your bearings of where we’re headed.
You can see our full floor plan here.
Today we started off by finishing the framing of the East facing end wall. The sunrise through the two large windows will be incredible!
For a quick refresher of framing techniques and a “How to Frame Walls Tutorial” video check out framing day #1.
Here’s the East End Wall
NOTE: This it the only exterior wall that was framed using 2 x 6’s – 16″oc. Also note the tripped up 2 x 6 in the center. This will make up one of the three main support posts for the roof.
The rest of the exterior walls are all 2 x 4 – 16″oc. The reason this one end wall was framed using 2 x 6’s is because this main living room incorporated a cathedral ceiling and there will be no additional horizontal support beams as seen in other cabins.
We wanted a completely open design without any load bearing beams obstructing the open concept. Not that this looks in anyway unappealing but we wanted to save on wood, work and test an new roof truss design that will NOT require these support beams. Stay tuned for that post!
The entire roof load will be carried vertically through the exterior walls and through the 3 main vertical support beams and directly into the foundation blocks. This is unlike 99% of most roof trusses which actually push the exterior walls OUTWARDS and not actually straight down.
HANDY TOOL: One of the most handy items we had that any build site can’t be without is an aluminum folding work platform.
Once the end and the front walls were framed we sheathed them with 7/16″ 4′ X 8′ OSB.
Leveling The Cabin
At this point with all exterior walls sheathed and secure we wanted to ensure that the cabin was still level BEFORE we started the rafters and more weight. It’s easy to check for level by using a few nails and some string.
TIP: Measure from the bottom of the support beams to a point approx 2 feet up the wall and drive in a nail. Repeat on all 4 corners and connect the nails with your string. Use your 4′ level on the string to check for level. The reason we don’t put the level directly on the bottom of the OSB is that it’s possible for the OSB to not be cut perfectly straight, it could swell with moisture or it may not be nailed on squarely.
If you do need to re-level the cabin at any point simply build a quick make-shift lever with lumber and fulcrum using a few logs.
Here’s one way to do it…
Framing The Interior Wall
The main interior wall 2 x 4 16″ oc is a lead bearing wall for the loft floor and sits directly above the center main floor beam. We made a change to the floor plan at this point and decided to remove the main bedroom closet and enlarge the bathroom.
Center Load Bearing Post
There will be three vertical posts along with the exterior walls supporting the roof. The two end posts are incorporated into the design of the wall framing. The center post we build from tripling up 2 x 6’s with and DAP construction adhesive.
TOOLS: Another handy tool that we couldn’t be without were bar-clamps.
TIP: You don’t have long before the DAP expanding construction adhesive dries so pre-cut any pieces you may need ahead of time.
The completed vertical support beam.
Wrapping The Cabin in Tyvek
With the main floor walls sheathed in 7/16′ OSB and the center vertical support beam complete we next wrapped the exterior in Tyvek.
We have an excellent house wrap (Typar) “How To Video” by one of our favorite handyman Shannon from HouseImprovments.
We got help from the family for this part.
TIP: Before leaving the cabin for the night we made “V” shaped cuts in the Tyvek where the window cut outs are to help keep any potential rain out ( we did put a tarp over the top) but still allow the air to move through the cabin and dry it out. to
That “wraps up” the main floor framing!
Here’s a panoramic view from the inside…
We begin the main roof rafters. This will be an in-depth look at how we tackled what most people feel is the most complicated portion of the build.
With our roof rafter technique it’ll be painless but not quick. We spent the majority of our time on the roof and for good reason.
We also decided to install a steel roof as opposed to shingles. This will add to the longevity and the over all look of the cabin. Plus, the rain sounds incredible on a steel roof. and compete the main-floor wall framing and begin to tackle the three main vertical support posts for the rafter.
We hope you’ve enjoyed the build so far and hope you’ll be back for the next post.
To get caught up with everything build related head here to our building section and watch the whole cabin come to life.
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